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power testing?


Guest air gunner

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Guest air gunner

There doesent seem to be a range around me that tests power of my air rifle. is it possible to do it at home? my gun is a .22 bsa super sport (brand spanking new) it claims to be 11.5 fps but can i be sure all i want to know is it power full enough for hunting wabbits at say 30yrds? what should i do to test this at home? also i have read the scope zeroing article what i want to know is how can i set up a jig for this and is it really possible to shoot through a polo???? also how often do i need to zero my scope it is a bsa .22 special? its all a bit complicated all the things about distances etc how do i zero it for 15-30 yrds? about as close as i can get to game.

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Guest air gunner

ah ok i have read the zeroing article again and now it all makes sense only other question is if i zero it with a pellet of weight A and pellet weight B will it make a difference or say i use falt heads to zero it and hunt with domed pellets of different weights? and how would i make a jig for a break barrel for zeroing?

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Guest buster321c

Im my opinion , a bipod on a springer is`nt a good idea , you really need something to help absorb the kick , rather than hold it solid , the tenser that you are the harder it will be to get a good shot

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There doesent seem to be a range around me that tests power of my air rifle. is it possible to do it at home? my gun is a .22 bsa super sport (brand spanking new) it claims to be 11.5 fps but can i be sure all i want to know is it power full enough for hunting wabbits at say 30yrds? what should i do to test this at home?

 

Get yourself a ComBro CB 625 Mk4 (THIS) chronograph from (HERE) Robin Hewitt and his brother Nigel are the ones who invented the CB625 chronograph range, and they are the ones who actually make it for the shops. Robin is a good guy, and a nice guy to chat to on the phone - you will do a whole world worse than to phone him and order one from him. :yes:

 

 

also i have read the scope zeroing article what i want to know is how can i set up a jig for this?

 

The jig i mention in that post is purely for the scope itself, it will help you to cetralise the cross hairs before you mount the scope on the rifle and make ready to zero the scope to the rifle mate. :thumbs:

 

 

and is it really possible to shoot through a polo????

 

With a .177, i can honestly answer "yes" to that, not too sure of doing it with a 22 though - someone may like to confirm this point? :whistling:

 

also how often do i need to zero my scope it is a bsa .22 special?

 

The brand or make of the air rifle is of no consequence mate, in hteory, every time you change your pellet ype, you should re-zero the scope again. Same as before every outing with your rifle, it is best to check the zero each time. The bestest way is the safest way, IMO. :thumbs:

 

its all a bit complicated all the things about distances etc how do i zero it for 15-30 yrds? about as close as i can get to game.

 

Have another few read throughs, and I'm sure all will become clear mate. ;)

 

 

I hope the above answers are or will be, of some help to you bud?

 

 

All the best,

Grim.

Edited by Grim Reaper
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Guest air gunner

without a bi pod how can i be sure my shots are accurate? should i rest it on a solid object instead? and do i really need to zero it every 5 yrds!! would it work for just 15 and 30 yrds? dont worry ill soon have the hang of this stuff and there wont be any more stupid questions. if i zero it every time i shoot it only needs to be checked any adjustments should only be small and is it likly i will have to re zero? because thats hassle and it will scare the bunnys. yep i have read it again and its all making sence : )

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without a bi pod how can i be sure my shots are accurate?

The secret is to hold the rifle frimly, but flexibly. You need to practice in order to try and get the hold the same (or as near to this as you can get) each time you slip the shot off. If you were to fix a bi-pod to a springer rifle, you will find you will get the same effect as though you were resting it on a fence post - it will jump all over the place each time the shot is slipped - that is the nature of the beast, when it comes to recoil, I'm afraid. :icon_eek:

 

 

should i rest it on a solid object instead? and do i really need to zero it every 5 yrds!!

You should really hold it in your hands, to be honest with you mate, the key to firing springers acurately is to be as consistent as possible in your 'hold' of the rifle - firm, but flexible ;) No, you don't HAVE to zero at every 5 yards or so - this is (as i said) of particular use if you are having problems like 'crossover - this is where the scope is ever so slightly canted (tilted) in the scope mounts, and so this way SHOULD bring that to light, if that is the case?

 

would it work for just 15 and 30 yrds?

I can see no reason why it SHOULDN'T work - you should be able to zero at any range the first time.

 

 

dont worry ill soon have the hang of this stuff and there wont be any more stupid questions.

There is no such things as a stupid question really - questions are only stupid if they are not asked, IMO

 

 

 

if i zero it every time i shoot it only needs to be checked any adjustments should only be small

This is correct, yes.

 

 

and is it likly i will have to re zero? because thats hassle and it will scare the bunnys.

You should really check the zero before you go out (to the shoot) if at all possible, really.

 

 

 

 

 

yep i have read it again and its all making sence : ) All good. :thumbs:

 

 

 

I hope that helps mate?

 

 

All the best,

Grim.

Edited by Grim Reaper
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